Atmosphere and Character
Shinjuku perfectly embodies modern Tokyo's duality. By day, it is a bustling business neighbourhood dominated by imposing skyscrapers and traversed by millions of hurried salarymen. By night, it transforms into a nocturnal playground with thousands of izakaya, karaoke bars and restaurants open until dawn. The contrast between business Shinjuku and the Kabukicho hedonism creates unique energy.
The Shinjuku station, the world's busiest with 3.6 million daily passengers, can impress but remains remarkably well organised. Exits are clearly signposted and each sector has its own personality. The east houses department stores and shopping centres, while the west concentrates office towers and luxury hotels.
Where to Eat and Go Out
The gastronomic scene of Shinjuku rivals Tokyo's best neighbourhoods. Omoide Yokocho, nicknamed "Memory Lane", transports to post-war Tokyo with its tiny stalls serving yakitori and sake in an authentic retro ambience. Golden Gai, with its 200 microscopic bars, offers a unique but pricey experience.
The underground shopping centres are packed with family restaurants and affordable chains. Takashimaya Times Square offers a gourmet selection on the upper floors, while streets adjacent to the station hide excellent ramen and sushi restaurants. Fans of international cuisine find satisfaction in Kabukicho towers.
Getting Around
Shinjuku is the ideal transport hub to explore Tokyo and its surroundings. The JR Yamanote line connects directly to all tourist neighbourhoods, while private Odakyu and Keio lines reach Hakone, Kamakura or Mount Fuji. The metro perfectly complements this network with links to Asakusa, Ginza or Akihabara.
Taxis are plentiful around the station, particularly practical for late-night returns. Night buses take over when trains stop. Haneda Airport is reachable in 30 minutes via the Keikyu line, Narita in 60 minutes with the Narita Express.
Who It's For
Shinjuku suits perfectly first-time Tokyo stays thanks to its centrality and multiple facets. Couples appreciate romantic restaurants on high floors and sophisticated cocktail bars. Solo travellers enjoy the constant animation and opportunities to meet people in Kabukicho establishments.
Business travellers benefit from proximity to business centres and the excellent transport network. Note however for families with children : some Kabukicho sectors may be unsuitable, prefer the quieter west areas near major hotels.
Nightlife
The Shinjuku nightlife is legendary and deserves its own section. Kabukicho concentrates most entertainments with its giant pachinko parlours, host/hostess clubs and themed bars. The ambience remains good-natured despite the seedy reputation, with safety ensured by discreet but effective police presence.
The karaoke boxes of Shinjuku offer an authentically Japanese experience, often open 24/7. High-floor Japanese whisky bars provide a sophisticated alternative with panoramic city views. For a more relaxed evening, the numerous izakaya offer convivial ambience and reasonable prices.